Thursday, December 9, 2010

India Travels 11 Fatehpur Sikri

Fatehpur Sikri is an imperial palace complex. These red sandstone buildings and terraces were built by Akbar The Great. Akbar had 3 wives, each of a different faith: Muslim, Hindu and Christian. Each wife had a separate house, bath and gardens within the complex. The Hindu wife had the biggest and most lavish living quarters because she delivered the heir, Jahangir. Fatehpur Sikri , although quite large and beautiful red sandstone complex was completely abandoned within a fairly short time because the water in the area was found to be scare and unsuitable. As you look at the pictures, try to imagine the complex buildings with rich frescoes and gilding, lush potted plants scattered about, fine tapestries, rich canopies and beautiful textiles - all to suit an emperor, his wives and a harem.
This very tall & beautifully carved column holds a platform which is enclosed by pierced screen carvings. The emperor used to sit here with his nobles and hold private hearing. All the red sandstone (Akbar's favorite building medium) was quarried from the ridge on which they stand. The center is reached from carved walkway at each corner.
Hiran Minar is believed to be a memorial to Akbar's favorite elephant. The projections are hundreds of stone tusks. Our guide told us that Akbar's elephant was kept in the public gathering-garden area. As emperor, Akbar dispensed punishments and one was to have the elephant step on the transgessor's head - quish! At least you can see the beautiful countryside.
The projections from the tower are replicas of elephant tusks.
Ornately carved canopy was as amazing as beautiful. Typical of the entire complex - carvings. mosaics and gilded paintings throughout. Our heads were on a swivel. This canopy was for the astrologer.
This building is Diwan-I-Aam and you can see the intricately carved central pillar pictured above. It sits in the courtyard (as red sandstone) where Akbar gave public audiences.
In the private area of the royals is this interesing open-air pavillion. Heavy carpets and tapestries would have been hung in the winter months to keep out the cold. However, fine silk curtains in the warmer seasons would be drawn back to allow for cooler breezes to pass thru the mult-levelled building. The higher your level = your position, guess where Akbar sat?
This is Akbar's private chamber. Although Akbar had 3 wives, the chamber has a doorway for 5 nightly concubine visitors to enter unseen. The platform is quite high - about 7' off the ground to permit security and privacy. Imagine this stone platform piled high with matresses, rugs, pillows and 5 women, all enclosed with draperies. Scott's comment "It is good to be king!"
We are standing just outside on a terrace near Akbar's beautifully carved bed. That is a private bathing pool right outside and again Scott's comment "It is good to be King!" Notice the height of the ceiling - they were short people or as Christine said - Just the right height !
Badshani Darwaza, Akbar used this entrance to adjoining mosque complex. The very tall structure in the background is Buland Darwaza - the tallest gateway and the tallest doors in India. The short walk from the royal complex to the mosque complex is a gauntlet of street vendors that will follow you and pester you relentlessly. Christine gave in and bought - bracelets, what else?
Tomb of Sheik Salim Chisthi - exquisite marble serpentine brackets and almost transparent screens surround the inner tomb which has a sandalwood canopy inlaid with mother-of-pearl. Salim Chisthi predicted the end of Akbar's childlessness in 1568 and has become a symbol for childless women in search for their own miracles. Supplicants make a wish and tie a small cotton thread to the screen around the tomb. We, having two wonderful & grown sons, passed on this opportunity; however, the building was surrounded. I didn't think that a country that has over a billion people and a child born every 1/2 second might possibly have childless couples...
More red sandstone! This was about half mile from the complexes and I thought it lovely as it shows the hilly terraine and greenery of the area. Meanwhile Scott was accross the street selecting beautifully carved sandstone (whatelse) coasters and an insence burner with elephant motif. We toted them to the villa and are lovely reminders of this impressive area of India.

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