Nicosia, Cyprus

Nicosia, aka Lefkosia, is the capital of Cyprus. It lies toward the center of the island and has been the capital since the 11th Century AD. As we were staying on the southwest of the island, our trip involved a 3+ hour drive back toward Larnaca (airport) and then north into the hilly area that lies between the Troodos Mountains (east) and the Pentadaktylos Range (north along the coast). This building is unfortunately typical of what we encountered when we passed thru the check point from Cyprus to "The Turkish Republic of Cyprus". Very little new construction and many of the extremely old buildings of combination of stone, mud bricks and various types of wood - quite close together. Very, very old world feeling surrounded us the majority of our visit.

Efes, a Turkish brew was a new beer for us. Efes Pilsen gets its unique taste from rice added into the ingredients at brewing stage. The 5.0% ABV beer has been described to have a tangy malt and hops aroma, rich malt and a bitter-sweet finish that becomes dry and hoppy - Christine was pleased!

Early lunch at one of many sidewalk restaurants and cafes. Scott plotted our tour while Christine went inside to look at the wonderful selection. The service was exceptional and the price was amazingly good.

Buyuk (Great) Khan was build of yellow stone in 1576. A khan is an ancient hotel. The two-storied khan, has 68 rooms and 10 shops, was constructed on a square plan. The rooms downstairs were used as shops, storage rooms and stables. Upstairs were bedrooms feature fireplaces. There is a water tank with a fountain placed on columns at the center of the court and a prayer room. It is now used as a cafe, art gallery, and shops full of traditional folk art (lace, weaving, etc). The courtyard is huge and we noted many people having coffee and listening to traditional musicians.

Christine standing at one of the huge entrace doors to the Buyuk Khan. Note the prayer room in the center of the courtyard.

This is the remains of Himarcilar Khan (the khan for merchants using donkeys). The two-story building was also built on a square plan and according to official North Cyprus map, it has only 44 of its original 56 rooms remaining (like one could tell the difference). This khan is on a much smaller and less grand scale than the Buyuk Khan only a block south. It was built in the 18th century and has fallen into a dismal state of neglect. One of the sides looks slightly better; however, the full grown trees and rubish thrown into the site obscure much of its former style.

Buyuk Haman (Turkish Bath) is an authentic ottoman period structure. It is generally accepted that the bath was built partly with the material taken from the ruins of St. George de Poulains (reusing building materials is quite common in the Middle East). Scott is standing on the steps down into the Baths because the road level has been raised. The rooms of the baths remain at a lower level than the road and this building was in pristine condition - but then again it is a money maker! Scott had to posed beside the sign because of his friend Jerry Clark's famous opening line about the turkish baths.

The granite column in Ataturk Square is a tribute to Venetian rule in Cyprus. Originally it had a carved lion (St. Mark) and featured coats of arms of noble Venatian families, most of which are still discernable. The Ottmans removed the lion and toppled the column in 1570. Fortunately they left the column intact and it was re-erected by the British, who replaced the lost lion with a bronze orb. The Square today has small restaurants and cafes, where we noticed men playing backgammon and drinking coffee. The large building behind Christine was build by the British it is...

The British Colonial Law Courts. It was built in 1901 of yellow sandstone and is a city block square with the ever-present center courtyard. Notice the two flags flying: Turkish and Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus - flow together all over this half of the capital. At the corner closest to the Venetian Column is a platform that carries the British Royal Coat of Arms, which was built in memory of the Coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953. It was covered with plexiglass, how odd!

Built in 1845, the Arabahmet Pashe Mosque is an example of classical Ottoman architecture and named after one of the (many) conquerors of Cyprus Arap Ahmet Pasha. The mosque relects the style of the 16th century. The grounds were immaculate and an oasis of green in the fairly grey atmosphere on the Turkish side of the capital.

These vaults are so unique in style and intricate carving - all floral (no animal images are pemitted in Islam). We were interested in the columns at each end of the crypt, one end taller than the other and with writing in arabic.

A row of crypts again the outside wall of the mosque area. Some of the important ottoman pashas (a pasha governs a province) are buried in the graveyard of the mosque.

Walking thru the Arabamet Quarter we noted many buildings in a state of total disrepair. The first-story windows have been filled in with rocks, doors/windows and shutters lean again the walls and building materials are scattered about throughout the patchwork of the repairs that have been done. Unfortunately this was a typical site.

At the Dervis Pasha Mansion (built in the 19th century) we noticed this wall at back of the courtyard. The wall's construction was so interesting with stone/mortar at the base (yes that is the beginnings of the arched doorway to the right). The second level of materials seems to been mud brick covered with a layer of more mud and followed by another layer of mud and mixed medium bricks. This is the area where the kitchen, bathrooms and lavatories are located away from the main living ara.

Second floor men's majlis (meeting area) is the largest room in the Pasha Mansion; the mansion was repaired in 1988 with financial help from the Republic of turkey. Dervish Pasha was the editor of Zaman, the first Turkish newspaper in Cyprus, which is why his home was restored by the Department of Antiquities. The first floor was used as a store, with servant and service rooms being there and the second floor was living space for the family. Notice that only men are in this meeting room (Christine looks pained just being inside the doorway). Separate living spaces are also typical in Middle Eastern homes.

UN troops are still present in Nicosia - note the wite car with UN tags and UN signage on the door. Very odd!

Walked out of old-world atmosphere of Northern, Turkish-controlled Nicosia into a vibrant street mall atmosphere. Scott spotted the gyro vendor. We agreed that as neither of us may ever visit again, Scott needed to taste one. It was huge and Scott was not able to finish. Christine opted for a Keo on her way out of town.

Now for a bit of history on Nicosia. It is now Europe's only militarily divided city. One of the world's oldest cities, Nicosia was the center of an independent kingdom as early as the 7th century BC. It was under Byzantine rule in the early 4th century AD and passed to Guy of Lusignan (the Latin king of Jerusalem) in 1192. the Lusignan kings held Nicosia until it was captured in 1489 by the Venetians (remember the Venetian column). The city passed to the Ottoman Turks in 1571 and to the British in 1878. It was made capital of British-ruled Cyprus in 1925. Nicosia became the capital of independent Cyprus in 1960.

The city has been divided into Turkish and Greek Cypriot zones since the Turkish invasion in 1974. The Northern side of Cyprus (and Nicosia) is considered to be an occupied region whose claim of independent stateoood is recognized only by Turkey. Approximately 37% of Cypriot territory (including Northern Nicosia) is considered occupied area.

Of further note, all Cypriots call this city "Lefkosia" with only a slightly different spelling from North to South. Now, isn't that odd?

In closing, we would like to add that we decided to spend our time in Nicosia on the Northern Turkish-controlled side. We know that should we have the opportunity to visit Cyprus again, we have the unexplored eastern areas of the country & the cosmopolitan and bustling side of Nicosia for adventure. In some ways we both felt a bit like we did back in 1983 when we experienced a divided East/West Berlin... none of the apprehension, but the difference in living standards and conditions of the city were certainly apparent.

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Cyprus In November

View from the Troodos Mountains. Christine and the Simpsons took a 7K hike around Mt. Olympus one afternoon. We got a late start because all 5 hikers started down the wrong path and 2 hours later (this included a picnic lunch) we started down the real trail. It was a beautiful hike, scenic views and narrow paths along the rim. This photo shows a lovely almost-Alpine village we passed thru on our way up the mountain and the huge number of evergreens.

Christine placing an 8th glass atop the head of the Cypriot dancer. We had dinner here in May and knew the show, however, this time the glasses all fell and of course, Christine almost died of embarrasment. Four of our group had the delicious suckling pig - pork was on the menu every meal!

Scott on a back street of Limassol. Limassol in the largest port and an ancient city. This building had a placque with 1756 and the doorsteps are so high because the entire street bed had been removed for resurfacing. We wandered these maze-like back streets and viewed old mosques, marketplaces, the fortress (excellent museum) before our lunch with Simpsons and a walk along the corniche. Just outside Limassol is Kolossi Castle where the Crusaders made their quarters, fostering the making of the oldest named wine in the world, "Commandaria." Richard the Lionhearted in a documented visitor and was married here.

Encountered goat herders on one of our drives thru the hills. There were two herders & several dogs to manage this large group which crossed the road right in front of our car - so old world and so interesting to witness.

Scott enjoying a Carlsberg while we waited for our lunch on the last day. The weather had turned from brilliant blue skies and slight breezes to quite cloudy. This did not damper our spirits and we so enjoyed this little inner courtyard at a small hotel's restaurant. The waiter and the chef came out the talk with us and we were asked lots of questions about America.

We decided to try the Last Castle again (it was Christine's favorite meal in May). The castle is at the top of a dirt road up a steep hill. You have to have reservations and we couldn't find the correct number, so we drove up twice - once to book our table and once to enjoy our meal. Well worth the effort - the roast chicken and pork were exceptional. The winds were really gusting hill top and we had to eat with our jackets on, but the wine and foods warmed us. The wind was rustling the autumn fading leaves and swaying the clusters of grapes still clinging to the vines. It was the last day of the season for the restaurant, so the Simpsons had to miss this adventure in driving and dining, but we got them a business card. They can phone for reservations.

Christine, Emily Simpson, Lucy (Emily's school friend), Martin and Paula Simpson at lunch in the courtyard of The Kiniras Hotel-Restaurant. Many of the upstairs room opened on to this lovely space of about 12 tables, lovely potted plants & excellent service and good food.

Martin and Paula Simpson at a little cafe across from the Sea Caves. We had a drink and watched the sun set - lovely, just what you want to do on holiday.

The Sea Caves, Emily and Lucy walked all the way out and around the rim. It was so lovely and we were able to watch their silhouettes as they danced and played into the sun set.

Martin, Lucy, Paula and Emily at our picnic in the Troodos. Due to walking an hour in the wrong direction, we were starved and the troops revolted and refused to do the real trail until fed. Martin acquiesced and we enjoyed a simple picnic of meat, cheese, breads, eggs and wine before we began the 7K hike. Some of the trail was quite narrow (not great for a person with height issues) and rocky but the views were spectacular and worth the false start and chilled temps as we rounded the mountain and did the last 2K without benefits of the sun's warming rays. Scott wasn't feeling well and had taken a med that made him a tad sleepy. He stayed behind to nap, read his book and enjoy his I-pod in peace.

This is the sign that greeted us on way out of the airport - such simple sign, but such lovely places and people we were excited to explore. Our thoughts were to let the adventure begin!

Peyia outside of Paphos on the western side of the island. Peyia is built into the hillside and although this is gentle slope, it gets fairly steep as the roads wind their way up across the hill. Our villa was just up this street. Most of the houses are chalk white with a tile roof, but lots of greenery planted in every nook and cranny of the compact properties. There were fig and pomegrante trees outside out villa and the neighbor brought us grapefruit from her garden.

St. Paul's Pillars in Paphos. This site features a fairly small church (Catholic Church maintains it but it is used for services by all denominations. The entire area is quite large and is still be excavated. It has several buildings build on top of each other included a large mosque and a cathedral. There are pillars, mosaics, arches, tombs all over the site and you cannot walk among the ruins. Very interested as it is the official site of St. Paul's ministry in Cyprus.

Christine at Ayios Georgious (St. Georges). A pristine sunbathing and small marina just down the hill from...

Small Byzantine Catholic Church. We went in to explore and found the church beautifully maintained with lots of icons, flowers and woodwork.

Kykkos (Kykkou) Monastery

Kykkos Monastery is the richest and most lavish of the monasteries of Cyprus. It sits near a mountain peak, at 1,318 meters in the northwest Troodos Mountains. The monastery was founded sometime at the end of the 11th century. The original monastery has burned, as have subsequent buildings. The icon of Theotokos (Virgin Mary) was a "gift" to the Cypriot hermit Isaiah who miraculous cured the daughter of emperor Alexios 1 Komnenos (1081-1118 AD). According to legend, Isaiah requested the icon and funds to pay for construction of a monastery fitting the honours of housing this sacred relic. The icon is not to be gazed up under penalty of blindness and is covered in elaborated draping. A very small portion of the icon is visible through the draping and is displayed in the "dripping with gold" sanctuary, where we encountered many making a pilgrimage. Photography is not permitted in the sanctuary, but it was AMAZING! Main entrance with beautiful and brillant mosaics.

View of the 3-Bells tower just up the hill.

View of courtyard just to our right, galleries line the walkways on both levels.

Closer view of the inner passageway, this leads to the sanctuary and the icon. Note the Cypriot flag flying by the bell tower.

Christine models the bright purple robes women & men (scott included) are required to wear, as neither knees nor shoulders are acceptable. Christine wore a full abaya and sheyla to gain entrance to The Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi (also out of respect for religious culture). It wasn't a big deal for either of us, just a bit uncomfortable in the heat.

Dream sequence mural on wall of upper gallery.

Other side of same doorway's mural features the icon of Virgin Mary being venerated.

Vaulted ceiling were also covered with elaborate murals featuring Bible stories. Scott thought the ship in full sail was pretty interesting, note one at other end of the corridor as well.

Stunning Mural of an Angel (?). All the writing throughout was in Greek, saved us time, but was often confused and educationally challenged.

Believe this is St. Luke, who was known to have visited Cyprus and been a major influence on Christianity's spread throughout the island.

Mosaic, perhaps a plague of locusts being let loose?

Noah's Arch Mosaic with rabbit & raven on rock.

This was one of Christine's favorites, the colors were stunning!

Burning Bush mosaic, note the small white cross on mountain top (left side.) These last four mosaics were side by side on a gallery walkway and are indicative of many, many more!

The monestary is in the Troodos Mountains. You can see the road snaking about half way down in this photo. Our drive was 1 1/2 hours of twisting and narrow mountain roads up and back down the mountain. It was exhausting for Scott navigating a left-hand manual transmission and driving on the wrong side of the road all the way up, not to mention Christine's gasps of fright at sheer drop offs, hair-pin turns and on-coming traffic. While visiting several shops after our tour, Scott noticed cold Keo Beer for sale. We shared one and it was so calming and refreshing, that Scott purchased another to share on the way back down. The 1 1/2 hour drive back down, when this photo was taken, was much, much easier on both our nerves. Normally I'm not much on mixing beer and driving, but we got down the mountain and were still talking to each other!

Credit for our making the effort to experience Kykkos Monastery must be given to Christine's previous boss Linda Jackson at Ozzie, Ltd in Corydon. She often spoke of this fabulous site and Keo beer. Thank you Linda; here's to you. Cheers!

Love to you all,

Christine and Scott

Kathikas Village, Cyprus

Kathikas Village, just a 6K drive further up the hill from Peyia, is exactly how I pictured Cyprus. Please join me to tour a typical hill town, thousands of which dot the countryside in Cyprus. Driving into Kathikas you first notice how narrow and winding are the streets. Stone buildings, tavernas, grocery stores and homes line the streets. Note the plastic food totes, all bottled beverages come in glass or plastic & a deposit are required. Red terracotta blocks stacked in front of the building are typical building material throughout the island; did they run out of stones? Doubt it!

These are huge hot pink geraniums growing over a courtyard wall. Olive trees and Oleander bushes bloom alongside for color and privacy. A feast for the eyes!

The welcome center is the original 1-room school house. Inside was beautifully cool; it featured displays of agricultural products, maps, flora and fauna of the region and chairs for resting. Big round item is a terracotta pot; we saw these all over the island. At one point they may have held water (or wine), but now seem purely decorative.

OOPS In the visitor's courtyard are these two stone busts, one a Cypriot statesman and the other appeared military. (The writing was all in Greek) They sit at the edge of a large stone square and with the Greek Orthodox church on the other side, appear to anchor the village's gathering area.

The best tended garden ever seen, immaculate. The figure by the doorway was a wonderfully dressed scarecrow. The silvery patina on the weathered wood, the aged stone structure, the chicken coop on the left and not a weed in sight - what a delightful find!

Scott was intrigued by this aged-metal lock on a garage door. It seemed purely old world.

So appreciated the old structures gracing the streets with the dignity of dowager aunts. Imagine these large doors and windows thrown open to capture the cool sea breezes.

Geraniums, growing along side a whitewashed wall, are taller than Christine (well, that isn't too difficult). The large aloe growing in upper courtyard, the scroll-work metal fence and the utilitarian water pipe and faucet certainly caught Scott's eye.

Delightful entrance to a private courtyard just across the stree from the vegtable garden. A typical blue door, offset with hanging baskets, terracotta pots and the wooden tough all filled with blooming flowers was just too pretty to pass unappreciated. We wondered about the fenced roof and the up-side-down horseshoe on the lintel.

Oops, must have really like this photo!

Being up in the hills, the climate is ideal for wine growing. We noticed numerous homes with grape arbors, but this was the only 2-story affair. Again, we observed the walled, private courtyard that was entered thru double doors. Thick, trellised vines (see well-pruned example by the door) and plantings of olive trees offer shade, as well as, bountiful harvest.

With all that walking, we worked up an appetite. We heard of Imogen's Inn Taverna from a Scottish couple at The Last Castle (Christine's favorite meal). Imogen's features about 15 shaded outside tables and a large, delightfully dark and cool rustic inner room. Shared a Keo beer (our last of the trip) while enjoying the wait for our entrees. Lunch of stuffed cabbage leaves, spinach pie and eggplant/lamb mousaka was excellent. Yes, that is three entrees, but we were running out of time and wanted to try everything that looked good on the menu.

Just after lunch we walked down the street and turned the corner to this lovely little side street. Of course Christine had to see if there were anymore hidden treasures in this lovely little village.

There was, at the back of the building, a bonus of more carefully tended pots: cactus & succulents, geraniums, oleaners, herbs. Brilliant, simply brilliant...

Kathikas Village was exactly what I'd pictured a Cypriot village to resemble: small and closely set rock buildings, vine-covered courtyards, pots large and small overflowing with flowers in a riot of colors and blue doors/windows. Exploring this village on foot, we were rewarded with glimpses of daily life. Turning a corner on a back street we found an old woman (dressed all in black) sitting in the shade shelling peas. Our efforts brought well-tended gardens & lovely little homes, simple but pristine. Another vegtable garden was border with huge plants we'd never seen - artichokes! We heard two women (again all in black) chatting in a courtyard, who paused congenially to greet us as we passed. Olive trees, as well as, lime, lemon and oranges trees spilling their colorful bounty over the high walls were another bonus. It was a splendid 3 hours spent wandering about an absolutely delight-fill village.

One last photo, this of a curved doorway on a flatiron building. It's well weathered and peeling Mediterranean blue paint offers a glimpse, in a doorway, to Cyprus' turbulent and romantic past!

Love to All,

Scott and Christine