Saturday, December 18, 2010

India Travels 18 - The End

Enjoying a seaside massage. He hit all the right buttons and worked out a stubborn knot in my back. Well worth the $15 for 1/2 hr.
Christine with one of the ever present cows. They seem so docile but I wouldn't want to give them the chance.
Someone going for a parachute ride. - I watched and thought - not me!


This little girl did the slack rope walk setting up the entire apparatus with her mother who also had a 14? month old baby in tow right in front of our lounge chairs. She had previously come past with a little boy who played a tin plate like a drum while she contorted with a small hoop. When we gave her a few ruppies, she - of all those we gave money to - said "Thank You" and smiled so sweetly.

We both were in awe as to their ingenuity to make a living. The rope, pegs, hammer and other items were all carried by the mother, on her head with the baby in arms. The 4 poles were carried by the little girl on her head as well. I can't imagine a 8 year old in America even knowing how to use a hammer let alone working all day to put food on the plate.

Surprise ! - Christine had been contemplating a change in hair styles - feeling ill and not wanting to mess with her long hair any more, she booked an appointment at the resort salon and had it cut off. The stylist was very leary and tried to go shoulder length - but with Christine's adamant instructions finally got her to cut it short. She's so happy with it and has taken 1/2 hr off her morning beautification regime.

Our stay was over in Goa and we left for the airport. Since we had some extra time before needing to be there , we took a side trip into Old Goa. There at the Basilica de Bom Jesus was the Tomb of St Francis Xavier - his body lies in state here since it's interment in 1553. That's it on top. He was cannonized because his body was in perfect condition when they dug it up a year later to transfer his bones to a more suitable resting place. Declared a miracle, he was made a Saint in 1622. I have to tell you - it didn't look too perfect 450 years later.

Christine with her "nose to the grindstone" One of the relics outside an old church.

In the capital, Panaji, there is this statue of Abbe de Faria - a Goan priest who won acclaim as the father of modern hypnosis in Paris. Pretty cool statue don't you think?
We arrived at the airport, caught the connection to Mumbai ( yes 3 times in that miserable airport) had a 6 hour layover and arrived back in Abu Dhabi at 3a local time.
We didn't leave the house for 2 days living off what was in the refridgerator and cabinets. Had it not been for the Delhi Belly, the trip would have naturally been more enjoyable. However, it was a once in a life time opportunity to visit a facinating country and to see and do things we never thought we'd have the chance to do. This ends the India Travelogue. We hope you enjoyed it,
Love to all,
Scott and Christine

Friday, December 17, 2010

India Travels 17 - On to Goa

Still in Jaipur -The Hawa Mahal - Built in 1799 the windows were again used as a place from where the harem could observe the street below. The Archaeological Museum is now attached to this building. Note the pink color - Jaipur is known as "The Pink City" Jaipur is also known as India's finest example of a planned city with it's geometric grid of streets and squares. (Crowded and dirty- read filthy- streets and squares)
A statue to the Monkey God - Hanuman. It's about 40' tall.

The beach in Goa. ( Goa is a state in India. We were about 25 miles south of the capital, Panaji, in a town called Mobor. ) Relaxation - here we come ! Our resort, the Donna Sylvia, is 300m to the rear. ( Yeah I know weird name)
Not all the sights on the beach were fond memories - Please note Christine is in complete agreement, while on the other hand some of the memories are good. She's with a Brit we met. She and her husband-to-be were on a buying trip for their upcomming wedding. They could buy all the groomsmen waistcoats and suits plus have a great vacation for a fraction of the cost back in the UK. Christine is feeling much better with a Kingfisher in hand. I personally feel the hottest babe on the beach was the one I bought.
Yes - cows on the beach. They strolled on by, stopped and lounged in the surf then moved on. The people in the foreground are selling their wares. They were respectfully polite and didn't push themselves upon you when told no thanks. A completely different style compared to those in the north who were as persistent as flies on a fresh cow patty. They were so annoying you had to steel yourself for the onslaught every time you exited the car.
Christine at "Our" beach shack bar/restaurant, the "Silver Sand".
Note the menu- also in Russian. We were the only ones there representing our country at the resort - all others were UK or Russians. (As was the large person in the previous picture - she and her equally rotund friend were a sight which has been sadly burned into my memory scaring me for life)
Just up the beach was this typical hand hewn Goan boat w/ outrigger. I came across this on my sunrise walk the day after my birthday. Christine was still enjoying sleepy time.

Obviously the Lifeguard station for our section of the Goan coastline.
Hi All,
Jaipur was quite interesting but unfortunately seeing it alone - even though I had hired a guide, is not as fun when you do it by yourself. To ease Christine's disapointment of missing the elephant ride and tours, I had the driver take me to a store where you could buy fabrics. Jaipur is known for their fabric block printing method. There I purchased 2 tablecloths - one a deep red and the other blue, both which had elephants on them. She was thrilled to get them even though she felt so poorly.
We had to leave for the airport at 5:30a the following morning so we got our bags packed the night before and had a small Chinese meal in the hotel. The wonton soup was exactly what Christine needed and she perked up some.
Our flight to Goa via Mumbai was uneventful and we landed in a completely different world. Goa is laid back, not crowded and not nearly as dirty.Mainly catholic, it was settled by the Portugese. Compared to the Muslum and Hindu, crowded, insane, dirty north we had just left, this was a much more familiar paradise.
We had booked an all inclusive (alcohol too) resort which had 4 unit bungalows instead of the typical hotel. It was a short 300 meters to the beach where we relaxed and dealt with the lingering Delhi Belly. Christine kept an eye out for Matt Damon (Jason Bourne). I did my best imitation - unfortunately she saw thru the ruse !

India Travels 16 - More of Jaipur

The hill opposite the Amber Fort. The area has many walls and observation towers. I would have hated to have been the guy who worked at the top. That's one heck of a climb. The lake for the water garden starts directly to the right of the picture.

This is the entry courtyard - see the elephants on the right. Picture taken from entry gate to the palace compound. To my left, out of view, is the Hindu Temple to Shiva.
One of the many sights - here a woman stood just inside the highly inlaid main gate - seen in the previous post. I gave her a few ruppees - maybe a nickel - for the picture.
No that isn't a big zit on my forehead. One of the interior gardens w/ fountain directly across from the private meeting chambers. The harem and sleeping area is to the right.

This is the inside of the carved marble screen in the main palace gate where the ladies (harem) would watch the activities in the courtyard below but could still remain descreetly out of view. No - and stop saying that I have a zit on my forehead ! I'm actually practicing my Halloween Costume - I'm going as a coffee perculator this year - You know - when the red light comes on - Coffee's Done !

Now this is when it's "Good to be King" ! From this perch, the king would sit and watch the ladies perform and dance in a private courtyard below. When one suited his fancy , she was beckoned to the private sleeping quarters which are behind me. - There were 12 rooms around the courtyard for the ladies. The wives of the king along with the harem had no problem with this arrangement. Sometimes I wish we could return to these glory days of yesteryear!
Ouch - Christine just kicked me !

Also in Jaipur, the Jai Mahal, known as Water Palace sits in the middle of a lake. An awesome sight which seemed to float was so peaceful. This palace was built for royal duck hunting parties. I hear the sale price is low beacuse of a constant water problem in the basement.

The Peacock Gate leading from the 'Courtyard of the Beloved" inside the City Palace. Quite ornate and 3-D ( breast and head of peacock extends out from the inlay work)
This is the City Palace where the ruling Maharaja lives in the building behind the 4 story pink structure. - It was through the doors directly behind me where you'd enter the "courtyard of the beloved". The ruler is a figurehead and has no official powers. In the building to the right are 2 HUGE silver urns - as tall as I am - which held over 900 gallons each of sacred Ganges water which were taken to London in 1901 for the Maharaja's visit (yes - he took his own drinking water ) These urns are in the Guinness Book of Records as the worlds larges silver objects. ( the picture didn't turn out well so you're not seeing them)

This is a giant 75' tall sundial - "accurate to 10 seconds" - Built in 1728, Jantar-Mantar next to the City Palace, is a compound of about 30 different observatories which would give date/ time/ star charts, zodiac sign start/end dates etc. They were big into horoscopes and foretelling of the future. In this picture the shadow was read on the curved section on left which is calibrated to hours/minutes and 10ths of minutes. I was amazed at the complexity and accuracy obtained from the seemingly archaic but intricate large scale devices.

Monday, December 13, 2010

India Travels 15 Jaipur

Hi All,

Our next stop was Jaipur. Sorry these are out of order so we will go backwards. Above I am at the main gate to the Amber Fort. A palace about 1/2 up this big hill. The fort at the top is closed. This fort/palace was built in 1592. The carved marble screens at the top would allow the ladies to watch the action in the courtyard. Oh, where is Christine ? As we came into Jaipur the evening before, she was progressively getting sicker and sicker - yes the Delhi Belly. She opted to stay in bed and close to the facilities that day - Good thing as she wasn't much bettter when I arrived back at the hotel in the mid-afternoon - sick myself. It was a good thing we had a suite with two restrooms. Needless to say - this was not what we wanted to happen , brought pills and took extra precautions with washing hands etc. but to no avail. The remainder of the trip was that ill feeling and keeping a facility close at hand. - You know the routine.

This is looking down at the water garden. With the palace way up here, and the water way down there , they used an ingenious method to raise the water up 5 levels - a conveyor belt with earthenware pots to a cistern then repeated the process at each level. Since water was so precious, they used it many times before it was discarded. For cooling, bathing, cleaning and then on to the gardens.
Me at the main gate again. Note the inlay work and frescos walls. You can see this alcove on the picture above.
This is outside the private meeting chambers of the ruler. The place is inlayed with semiprecious stones and of all things - mirrors. When candles were lit at night , the reflections were like stars in the sky. On the otherside of the chamber, workman are doing restoration and cleaning. You'd be amazed at how white it was compared to where I am standing which is darker with the dirt and dust of the ages.

Just call me Swami ! The guy on the left was palying a drum like instrument where he plucked at a wire which then beat the drum which is under his left leg. The snakes are de-fanged so no worries. I actually ended up "petting" one of the cobra's on the head- Brave wasn't I? - ( I mean to wear that ridiculous looking turban)

Our ride awaits. The elephant I rode up to the fort is on the left. Not all that comfortable, but then again - better than walking to the top. To protect them from abuse, each elephant is allowed 5 trips per day. After that all visitors make the hike.

The elephant procession about 1/2 way up. The water garden lake is to the right of this picture.

The entry courtyard. This picture was taken from elephant back. You can see the main palace gate, upper center, seen in the pictures above. The structure to the left is where the ruler would have his public audiences. To the right, unfortunately hidden behind the tree is a Hindu temple to the goddess Shiva. No pictures were allowed inside. (Yes I got the red dot applied on my forehead) You entered the upper palace area via the steps on the right and thru yet another gate.
A Hindu Temple in the valley below.
The weather this day was overcast and hazy hence the picture quality.

India Travels 14 The Step Well

So, we are driving down the highway and Vikrum asks if we want to see a big well. We look at each other and figure "why not, we might as well see everything possible. As we are driving down backroads we come across this building This is a school. It was about 3:00 PM and the students are all outside having their lessons
We drove into a small hamlet and Vikrum stops beside this building. We are thinking that is a big building to house a well. This is simply the entrance to the well compound. Once inside we pay a minimal fee and an older Indian gentleman motions us forward down a narrow passageway which opens to this...

This is an Indian Step Well. This well was constructed during the 8th and 9th centuries. There are 8 upper levels above the line of fencing. Three sides of the well look exactly like the side you see with people across the way. The 4th side is completely different because it was for the royals.
This shows the levels and steps better. No one is permitted below the lower fencing.
5 levels of steps below the fencing before you reach the water. The water was stagnant and green with algae as we are way past the Spring monsoons.
Part of the carved stonework on the lower portion of the 4th side - the Marahaja side. Carvings were throughout the complex. All numbered and carefully positioned out of the way of tourists.
Scott and Vikrum 5 levels down into the well.

The side of the step well reseved for the maharaja. The far left side was the private bath for the females and the closer right side was for the maharaja. These rooms were quite large and the center open court area was filled with small grottos for statues. All three areas were highly carved, but you could tell that many pieces were missing. The carving you saw above is one of the two from the lower left of the photo.


View out the window opening of the maharaja's private bathing area. The lower left shows a carving of an elephant.

Some of the many carved artifacts we saw at this humble step well. Aside from the age, it was obviously this was Hindu influence on the carvings. Figures of animals and people are front and center in the Hindi religion. Islam does not permit any animals figures - plants are acceptable.

Thursday, December 9, 2010

India Travels 13

This is the wildlife episode of our trip! Yes - it's a monkey - but it's a very special monkey - It's the Guard Monkey at the Jaypee Palace Hotel in Agra - it kept the street monkeys off the property. He was fierce!
Move over Harry Potter - Christine has her Nimbus 2000 and is ready for a game of Quidditch. OR... she just a witch and has her ride!
But, you all do know her motto: "If the broom fits, ride it!" We stopped at a bird & animal sanctuary on our drive to Jaipur. There was lots of water and lots of birds. This is a crane.

This is an antelope and yes, it was close to the road. We were on a bicicyle powered rickshaw and enjoyed the peaceful, open-air ride thru lovely setting.

Cutest little lizard and Scott got a wonderful shot. There were wildlife photographers staying in the lodge in the reserve. Some stay for weeks waiting for that perfect shot.

Another crane with a deer in the background. The reserve had many small "island" they had made over the years to promote nesting birds. At one time this was a maharaja private hunting preserve and he had the trees cut down so his guests could get better sight lines.

Christine saw this monitor lizard at the side of the road. It was 4 foot long and even then guide missed it! I stayed on the rickshaw while Scott got the better shot.

National bird of India is the peacock. No matter how many you see, they are still a thrilling site.

This was the luckiest monkey on the drive to Jaipur. Our driver stopped to buy bananas and knew just when to stop and called them in. They like the bananas, but they were too many monkey to all get a banana, so we threw this guy a whole apple. Vikrum grabbed the rest of the apples from us and broke them apart and gave pieces to the rest of the group. This monkey wasn't gonna share no how, no way!

Only about a quarter of the monkeys that enjoyed bananas and apples. Vikrum told us that he regularily stops and feeds them, but not apples like Americans.